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Cosmetics without preservatives, it is possible!

Les huiles essentielles, d’incroyables conservateurs naturels

What if everyone definitely turned to brands that master natural conservation?

All cosmetic products placed on the market are guaranteed “stable” over a certain period. But often at the cost of cocktails of chemical preservatives, some of which are decried as probable endocrine disruptors (the famous parabens among others) … At PHYT’S, I have been working (for almost 30 years now!), With my team, to develop formulations cosmetics without synthetic preservatives, which keep naturally. This is a complex exercise that we master well thanks, in particular, to our expertise in handling essential oils.

The extreme naturalness of formulas: a historical requirement

To find out if a cosmetic product keeps well, all laboratories have the obligation to have “challenge tests” carried out. These are tests in which the cream to be tested will be seeded with germs (yeasts, molds, bacteria, etc.), according to very strict protocols. Then, we observe if the product resists the proliferation of these germs.
This verifies that the ingredients used, for example in the cream, oil or shower gel, ensure the stability of the formula. However, in organic cosmetics, the list of authorized synthetic preservatives is extremely limited (restricted to a few substances considered to be “light”). Cosmetic manufacturers must therefore use ingredients of natural origin with “preservative” properties. This is the case of certain essential oils that we know well at PHYT’S. In fact, it has been more than 40 years since the laboratory took the side of “0% chemical synthesis” and tried not to “use” the famous 5% synthetic preservatives authorized by the Cosmebio charter. This approach is rare, because designing hygiene and care products without synthetic preservatives is a complicated job. This requires a real knowledge of plant active ingredients.

Essential oils, incredible natural preservatives

At PHYT’S, essential oils (organic!) Are really our “darlings”. First of all because they have countless qualities that make our cosmetics “active” and effective. Second, because they give our products their subtle and characteristic fragrances. Finally, because these plant concentrates
This is the case of certain essences, such as fine lavender or common thyme, which have powerful bactericidal and bacteriostatic properties. But beware ! The use of essential oils in cosmetics requires precise know-how. Optimizing the effectiveness of storage AND the tolerance of essential oils on the skin is an art …
In addition, advances in scientific research have enabled us to discover other natural ingredients that help with conservation, such as certain natural perfumes for example.

“Polyfoil” tubes: waterproof packaging that naturally preserves cosmetics

At the beginning of PHYT’S – that is to say more than forty years ago now – the brand only offered “cabin treatments” in the form of products in glass ampoules, single-dose, practical and guaranteeing conservation for the beautician. Then, products “on sale” developed, this time in the form of metal tubes, but which tended to deform and be damaged. Finally, from the 1990s, we chose an innovative packaging, both flexible and rigid, very waterproof: the multilayer Polyfoil tube. The goal: to preserve the cream from the outside environment. Bet successful since all our cosmetics are self-preserving without problem, with an expiration date set at 3 years.

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