Preservative-free cosmetics are possible!

What if everyone switched for good to brands that have mastered natural preservation?

All cosmetic products on the market are guaranteed to be “stable” for a certain period. But often at the cost of cocktails of chemical preservatives. Some of them are criticized as probable endocrine disruptors (the well-known parabens, among others)… At PHYT’S, we work to develop formulas for cosmetics without synthetic preservatives that keep naturally. It is a complex exercise that we master well, thanks in particular to our expertise in working with essential oils.

Extremely natural formulas: a long-standing standard

To find out whether a cosmetic product keeps well, every laboratory must have “challenge tests” carried out. In these tests, the cream being tested is inoculated with germs (yeasts, moulds, bacteria…) following very strict protocols. Then we observe whether the product resists the growth of these germs.
This makes it possible to check that the ingredients used, for example in the cream, oil or shower gel, keep the formula stable. In organic cosmetics, the list of authorized synthetic preservatives is extremely limited (restricted to a few substances considered “light”). Cosmetics manufacturers must therefore use ingredients of natural origin with “preservative” properties. This is the case for certain essential oils that we know well at PHYT’S. For more than 40 years, the laboratory has chosen “0% chemical synthesis”. It also strives not to “use up” the famous 5% of synthetic preservatives allowed by the Cosmebio charter. This approach is rare, because designing hygiene and skincare products without synthetic preservatives is a difficult craft. It requires real knowledge of plant actives.

Essential oils, amazing natural preservatives

At PHYT’S, (organic!) essential oils really are our “favourites”. First, because they have countless qualities that make our cosmetics “active” and effective. Second, because they give our products their subtle, distinctive fragrances. And finally, because these plant concentrates help preserve our formulas.
This is the case for certain essences, such as fine lavender or common thyme, which have powerful bactericidal and bacteriostatic properties. But be careful! Using essential oils in cosmetics requires precise know-how. Optimizing both the preservation effectiveness AND the skin tolerance of essential oils is a real art…
In addition, advances in scientific research have helped us discover other natural ingredients that help with preservation, such as certain natural fragrances.

“Polyfoil” tubes: airtight packaging that keeps cosmetics naturally

When PHYT’S began, the brand only offered “salon treatments” in glass ampoules: single doses that were practical and guaranteed preservation for the esthetician. Then products “for retail” were developed, this time in metal tubes, but they tended to bend and get damaged. Finally, from the 1990s, we chose an innovative packaging that is both flexible and rigid, and very airtight: the multilayer Polyfoil tube. The goal: protect the cream from the outside environment. And it worked, since all our cosmetics keep without any problem, with an expiry date set at 3 years.